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'Ped® Faq's|
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One of the things I've noticed with all models of 'peds is the biggest, least expensive modification (the most "bang for the buck") is to change out that stock Walbro carb for the HP aftermarket carb. The aftermarket carb has a larger throat area to let more air & gas to be sucked thru to the engine. You have to disconnect the kill switch , and run a seperate wire from the kill switch down to the engine, if your don't grind down the carb mounting bolts a little so they don't ground out on the block. Go-Ped®; uses the outter sheath on the throttle cable as the "wire" to the engine, and it grounds out with the new after market carb, so the engine thinks the kill button is being pressed all the time. Run your own wire between the switch and engine, and the little problem is solved! "Fuzz Man" the tech support dude @ Ron's Rad Toys says you can just grind a 1/16-inch off the end of the two long screws holding down the velocity stack & carb so they don't ground out. Hummmph! That's simple!
To lighten flywheel cut off every other fin. "biglouie"
For advance timing take out stock key way and turn flywheel 8mm to the right the piston must be at top center. "biglouie"
For more compression take out stock head gasket and use yamah bond 1148. "biglouie"
MSD KIT DOES NOT NEED THE FLYWHEEL TRUST ME I AM RUNNING IT NOW!!!!! "BIGLOUIE"
I like to tinker on my Bigfoot -not to reinvent the wheel...just make it better! The weak link in the friction drive is the wimpy spring that holds the engine down on the tire. When you ride on gravel the darn thing would bounce up and down until you loose all forward momentum. I tried a stronger spring. Better, but not great. Tim Patmont says they are coming up with a similar fix to be incorporated in the new 'Foots. Then it came to me like a flash of brilliance (a rare occurrence for me), just reverse the position of the spring and tension cable! With a pully from the front brake off a mountain bike and a little stainless stock I routed the cable over the engine pivot and up to the spring hole, then put the spring where the cable was originally. Ditch the stock drive spindle for a .625 serrated stainless one from Meyer Dist. and replace the tension and brake levers with a Shimano mountain bike combo. One click of the shifter and your drive is SERIOUS ENGAGED! The only other mod I would recommend is a third bearing support 'cause I'm sure the extra pressure on the spindle will snap the crank eventually. My friends on Sports used to smoke my Bigfoot, but not any more. Wet grass, steep inclines, gravel and hole-shot wheelies are no problem! Phill
I put a Cool Head heat sink on my 'Foot but the local
NAPA store didn't have any of the recommended heat sink goop.
Radio Shack has the same stuff in a nifty little squeeze tube
but an electrician buddy turned me
on to something MUCH better. It's called KOPR-SHIELD, and available
at electrical supplies. Just don,t get it on your skin or clothes!
All the goop on the planet is not a replacement for GOOD mechanical
contact between the head and heat sink. I spent about half an
hour with a dremel and file on the head, and even had to relieve
a little on the bottom of the 'sink. Carbon paper squished between
the two surfaces will show you where you need to file or grind
more. Cool Runnin's Phil
Another cheap way to make you 'ped go faster is to change
out the spindle to a different diameter one. There are diffferent
size spindles designed to do different things. It's simple: a
skinny spindle gives out-of-the-hole (or stop up to mid-range
rpm) performance, but takes away from your top speed. A fat spindle
does the opposite: gives you a higher top speed, but sacrifices
the bottom end performance. Some common spindle diameters are
(going from skinny to fat) are from: .675" (skinny), .705",
.750", up to .800"(fat). You want a good cross-hatch
pattern on the spindle so you can get traction, like on the ones
made by Triton. The spindles made by Engine Trix are great spindles,
but lack a cross-hatch pattern. The Engine Trix have a parallel
pattern on them - good for drag-racing type of racing 'cuzz it
breaks away at the start, but doesn't do much for hole-shots.
If you're really into doing jumps or just banging the heck out
of your 'ped, then you should consider a bearing support for the
rear. What this does is acts like a brace from the engine over
to the other side. When you are landing after catching some air,
you are putting a fat load on the spindle, which in turn might
snap the spindle off the end of the crank - usually taking out
the crank. That translates into big buck replacement parts. With
the bearing support you are doubling the load absorbing capacity
of the spindle since it is attached on both the engine end, and
the opposite end of the spindle.
How to change out the spindle: Remove the gas tank - actually pull the three nuts off the studs (ouch!) holding the tank in place, and put it over to one side - you don't have to take the fuel lines off. And it'll be easier to work with if the gas tank is empty. Remove the allen-head bolt on the end of the spindle. You'll have to hold the spindle in place with pliers or vise-grips to keep it still. And you'll either need to clamp the 'ped in a vise or have a friend hold the 'ped while its on its side for you. Once the allen-head bolt is out, then you need to place a flat-head screw driver (a big one) under the spindle's bottom near the engine and hit the screwdriver to pop the spindle off. The spindle is a "press-fit" on the crankshaft end. You may want to put something (like a piece of thin aluminum or steel) under the screwdriver to keep it from chipping the paint or dinging up the case ends on the engine. Some stock spindles just pop right off...others are put on by gorillas's at the factory and require some work to get them off. Be careful, don't lose your patience and smack the life outta the thing - this is the end of the engine you're working on, and it's real expensive to buy a new engine! Once the spindle is off, reverse the order of things to put the new one on. Use some Locktight Blue on the allenhead bolt to keep it from falling out. Use some on the nuts on the gas tank nuts so they don't fall off. Then ENJOY! Here's another tip - use a thin coat of anti-seize compound on the end of the crankshaft. Next time you go to change your spindle it'll come off a lot easier.
Here's something I bet you didn't know: a stock late model engine (the G23-LH...1995 or newer) revs up to about 10-11,000 rpm, modified it'll hit 14,000 rpm. But the old style engine (1994 or back...the G2D-58-D engine) once modified can hit upwards of 17,000 rpm! Yikes! Do you want your Airwalks that close to something spinning 17,000 times a second!?! The old engine style is the one that will give you the most horsepower per cc, compared to the new engine. You can even watercool it! You can't do that with the new engine - the angle plug head doesn't really allow it. The reason they changed engine styles was because the tooling stuff was worn out where they make them in Japan, and since they had to make new tools to make the little 32cc engines we call a Go-Ped, they decided to make it burn cleaner, and be more gas efficient...which it is.
Racers tip: Shorten the handlepole by about 1.5-2.0 inches! It lets you throw the 'ped around a lot easier. Remove the handlepole by tapping out (with an appropiate size drift) the plastic pin in the hinge. Of course you'll have to remove the brake and throttle levers & cables. And that means cutting up the little padded area that the cables go under on the handle pole, clipping the plastic zip strip and the metal Oteker clamp. The safety spring and handle lock tube will come off also. Put the hinge in a vise, heat it up with a tourch to soften the epoxy so you can pull the handlepole off the hinge. Once it's cooled down you can use a tube cutter on the handlepole to shorten it up to the length you want. I used a tube cutter for a clean cut, but you can use a band saw or hacksaw. Clean up the burrs inside so it will slide back onto the hinge, apply new epoxy like JB Weld to the hinge and put the handlepole back on - make sure you have the hinge and handles lined up properly! Yee gads! Get that messed up and it's like having the alignment out on your car...always turning right or left to go straight - yuck! Put it all back together and you'll have a 'ped built for action! Yup, it's nice having a nosey dude prowling the pits & stealing ideas for ya, huh?
Hot Rod tip: Here's a great all around performance gain for the new style engine (G23-LH). Deck the cylinder base about 20-thousandths. Eric says a lot of guys just take the gasket out and use a gasket sealer like Yamabond. That works, but it's better to mill off about 20-thousandths and use a stock gasket. The stock gasket is 20-thousandths already. It not only gives great bottom end (read: "holeshot") but will also give about 2-3 mph on top end. There is a down-side to this: if you are thinking about a stroker-crank, there will not be enough clearance. Eric says his shop does the milling for about $20. Shoot, for a 2-3 mph on top end for only $20.00 is in my kinda budget!
Here's a tip from the Go-Ped factory on how to get an extra bit more zip out of your Ped: advance the flywheel 1/2 a key way. To do this you must 1st remove the fan cover, flywheel nut, and flywheel. (A 6mm bolt threaded into one of the two holes in the flywheel until it bottoms out against the case will do.) Next remove the keyway (a pair of dykes works best), and mark the position of the keyway on the end of the threads. Then put the flywheel back in the stock location by lining up the keyway with your mark. Then, rotate the flywheel clockwise half a keyway. Seat the flywheel on the crankshaft witha socket and hammer, then tighten the flywheel nut, and install the fan cover. If everything was done correctly, you should pick up a couple of mph as well as some bottom end! (By the way, 5 of the 7 factory modifieds used the new style motors - the G23 LH - and this includes the 1st and 2nd place Pro-Mod finishers!) Thank you Go-Ped Factory Guys for the tip!
Porting Tips: Ken (a fellow Ped head) has a couple of tips on porting your late model cylinder. Try widening the exhaust and intake ports .5mm each side. Use a small stone 1/8-3/16" diameter, and grind the sides of each port. Be careful not to grind the top or bottom, 'cause you don't want to remove the chrome plating on the camfered port edges. (You also start messing with timing then, and that's where your problems start!) This should give you an increase in mid and top end.
Stock air filter trick from Mark Lockwood: "I seriously think the stock air filter has greater top end speed than the K&N air filter." Drill holes in to the small circles that are on the backside of the cover. This gives your 'ped higher intake, but makes a small difference on your ped's performence. I would also recommend taking off your engine covers,and your muffler ,and picking the black gunk that builds up over time on the part your muffler connects to. That gradualy decreases your ped's performance. Use the highest octane gas possible despite the price, it increases your Go-ped's performence. I would recomend "purple stuff": McCulloch two cycle engine oil. It comes in a bottle that is black with a yellow cap is usualy sold at hardware stores, and contains the right amount of oil for one gallon of gas. This made a difference on my freind's ped. He had been using the same octane fuel at the same gas station, but different oils. I tried his gas that contained Maxima racing oil, and decreased my performance, but in his 'ped (with the purple oil) it increased his performance.
Want a faster Liquimatic? If you have a Liquimatic, and you want more acceleration, then you need to find the little plastic screw right behind the airfilter, on top of the throttle thingy and turn it to the left until you get the performance you want." This adjusts the fuel air mixture - so be careful and check your spark plug often after turning the screw, or you'll be calling Jet-Boy for a new piston and cylinder after your Three-Mile -Island meltdown to the core!
Need a little more 'punch' to your ped? First get a drill bit the same size as the hole in the frame where the exaust comes out. On the opposite side of the frame go back 1-2 inches from the original hole and drill a new hole. This will increase your low end and top end speed a little bit." Thanks, Ryan!
Colin Bannon says a snip here and a snip there will get ya some extra mph's: "...right by where the exhaust comes out of the engine, there is a rubber thing that the exhaust goes through to get into the frame and out the exhaust hole. If you clip that off, it will increase the speed by 2-3 mph. Also, just use one air filter and that will give you another 1 mph..
Carb tips from a racer: Tim Jacobs in the land of Oz (Kansas) e-mails a tip on your Walbro carb - "...look into the throat of the carb with the trottle wide open, if the barrel isn't perfectly matched to the body bore, file the stop until you get a perfect match or hole. It's good for about 1/2 mph. Also stock ped's dont like high octane, we did a bunch of fuel testing this weekend. 87 octane was the best by far, 105 race gas knocked 2 mph off, 91 octane about 3/4 mph. Double oil increased mph by about 1/2 mph."
Muffler tip: Take off your muffler, remove the little foam connector, and put the muffler back on upside down! This makes it a little louder, and faster.
Got dirt in your Gas cap? Huh?!? Clean it out bud! A visitor writes:"...If your 'ped keeps bogging down with the throddle wide open tak off the gas cap and stick a little needle in the small hole on the top and in the 2 holes on the other side." And remember the engine is low to all the dirt you keep kicking up, toe-jam flying by, bugs, etc! Keep it clean!
Those pesky plastic air filters are in the wrong place and they're flimsy at best, right? Here's a tip from a 'ped head up in Canada on what to do - "If you have problems with keeping the cover of the filter on, you might want to change it for a weed-eater filter. Those filters are screwed down and they are smaller in size. That way, they are less cumbersome. Just don't forget to drill holes in the front of the cover for sufficient air intake.
"Piston port two strokes are sensitive to intake length. If you have a late motor with a stock carb try shortening the intake manifold 25-50%. It can be cut with a hack-saw and then must be re-surfaced. Use 400 grit sandpaper taped or glued to glass to re-surface.When installing, make sure the bolts don't bottom out, and that the carb is snug not just the bolts. If the manifold is too long the top end will feel too rich and leaning carb out doesn't fix it...too short and bottom end will suffer due to blow back."
Rattle, buzzzzzz, rattle... "Spring Noize"! Don't ya hate it? The noise from the handle pole spring? "You know that pesky little sound from the spring on your bars... Well, all you need is a thin piece of neoprene, the stuff from wetsuits to string in there. It will take a while to do but it is well worth it. Your ped will sound a lot quieter. ALOT OF TIMES I WAS SICK OF HEARING A RATTLE INSTEAD OF AN ENGINE."
A fix for a broken fuel inlet: If you've got a Walbro H.P.Carb and one of the little in/out fuel connectors breaks off, you can fix it with a few inches of 1/4" I.D. vinyl tubing and a small hose clamp. Just trim off the remaining part of the ribbed connector and cut into the base with an x-acto knife - so the fuel can flow through it horizontally. Make sure it's a good deep, clean cut. Clean it out carefully or you could get little pieces of plastic into your fuel. (Not that bad on the out line but could be devastating on the in line!) Then push the vinyl tube hard down onto the base. You will need no clamp here. It's a really tight fit. Then attach the other end to the fuel line and clamp it - snugly, don't over tighten or you'll slow the fuel flow. Fixed! Oh yeah, you might want to siphon out you're fuel before you start any of this.
A great mod for your ped is to get the lightweight MSD flywheel, it has a lower weight so it's easier for your engine to move it off the line. Plus it's pretty cheap. Laso I heard that those new chrome Jet-Pro pipes to alot better than the old ones and they're cheaper too. For noise sensitve areas Pacific Sand and Watersports sells a great little silencer that's lightweight, cheap, and DOES Not decrease performance. check it out. That's all. Later.
Sproing...spriong - BLAM! Uh oh...Heres a cool tip to fix that damn spring on the tuned pipes that always breaks at the wrong time. I found out how to fix the spring prob on a tuned pipe first take the header off the ped connect it to the pipe and clamp it in a vise then drill a hole straight through the pipe and header till you have an even hole going through the header and pipe then put a bolt through that hole and put a nut on the end and now you prob should be fixed but don't forget to put locktight on it. IM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF
UN-Plug It!: If your 'ped wont start but it wants to start ... disconnect the kill switch by the engine and that should help
Gritty subject...Tired of those aftermarket spindles going to crap on you about a week after you buy them? I know I got tired of the Triton's soft metal going shiney...so here's a tip from Chip in Virginia Beach VA - Use the re-grit kit on aftermarket spindles to lenghten the life...especially on the BigFoot if you do a lot of dirt riding. Use pop rivets on the Bigfoot rims to prevent them from coming apart.
I found that if u remove that cheap muffler and turn it upside down and before you do that remove the cupholdings it adds about 2-3 mph but is a little louder. I'm a typically poor teenager 14 years old and if u stupid ped heads cant mix the oil very good and if it dies remove the gas from the tank then take a lighter on the tip of the spark plug that hits the piston then keep it there for 5 seconds then run it till it dies,it should start right away.
I have a Liquimatic & a Sport model. The Sport has a third bearing support, that when I last noticed seemed pretty clean, but I noticed a power loss - I thought it was the carb, but after extensive adjusting I found that it didn't change, so I took off the third bearing support and found the bearing was frozen up, therefore it wore a nice groove in the spindle. Took it off cleaned the sealed bearing up, re-packed it and put it back on. The difference has been unreal - can't keep the front wheel on the ground. My point being, keep your third bearing clean!
I have a sport with a high performance spindle and I drilled some holes in my air filter and between those 2 things my go-ped can push about 25- 26 mph but I also discovered something else about your ped if you buy some re- usuable ice cubes and throw them in the gas tank it will make the gas burn faster and make your go-ped go faster (make sure the ice cubes won't melt in your tank cause if they do you will have to empty your whole tank also you can buy some nitro gas at any dirt bike shop and it is like 120 octane so it will give your go-ped some boost ask the guy if you can mix it will the oil also only run it a like once a month cause if you use it alot it can start to corrode or burn out some stuff in the motor.
A tip on how to get your spindle off easy: I was reading the tips at your page and wanted to let you know a secret, most people say to use vise grips to hold the spindle in place wile removing or tightening the spindle nut, Big mistake, you can scratch the spindle and have a bad time, wares out tires much faster what you want to do is remove the pull start from the other side of the engine and place a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel. Then you can remove the nut safely. Then to get the spindle off I recommend using a brass punch at the top of the spindle you use a brass punch because brass is a soft metal and will bend or dent before the spindle does. The tapping will slowly move the spindle off the tapered end of the crankshaft. Then when installing the new spindle tap the spindle back onto the tapered crack shaft with the brass punch till it is on tight. Then place a screwdriver back into the teeth of the flywheel and tighten the nut back on.
If you have a h.p. walbro carb the listen up. if your go-ped wont start then just pump the primer 6 time's dont worry it wont flood, then move the throttle up and down about 8 times the run with the ped and jump on it then you can ped away. If it still wont start check to see if you had all the gaskets the little pice of paper in between the airfilter and carb the carb and manifold and the manifold and crank case.
Here is another trick for when you happen to brake a crankshaft Like I did. In order to get the engine casing off you have to get the flywheel off the easiest way is with a flywheel puller but most people don't have one of those hanging around there garage, so you can use a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer with the hammer carefully hammer the flat end of the screwdriver in-between the flywheel and the engine casing. Then get your handy brass punch and start tapping till the flywheel comes off you may have to remove the screwdriver and turn the flywheel several times before it comes off. In order to remove the old crank after taking the engine case off you have to remove the small key on the side of the crank where it was on the flywheel use a very small punch to tap it out. Ok here is the fun part if you broke your crank it's a good idea to replace the oil seals and the engine bearings even if they look fine. The oil seals you can remove with a screwdriver waged under the seal but the bearings are a little harder to remove. In order to remove the bearings you need the engine casing off and separate from the crank. Place the case on a hard solid surface that wont melt or burn with the bearings down and take a torch and heat the case up the idea is the heat will make the metal expand casing the borings to fall out, so keep the flame on the casing not the bearings. Do the same for the other side of the engine case. You may need to take a towel or gloves, and bang the case into whatever surface you are working on lightly to help the bearings come out. When you add the new bearings its easer if the case is still hot but do not heat case with the new bearings in, heat the casing up then after removing the heat place the bearings in use a punch to tap in the bearings tapping on the metal outer ring of the bearings. Tap in evenly till you hear the tone change of the hammer on the punch this means that the bearings are all the way in or till the bearings are close to flush with the casing. Now then if your old piston was still good you have to take it off the old crank do this be removing one of the clips on the side pushing the pin out remove the other clip from the other sides careful not to lose them. They are very small and easy to lose push the pin into the back into the piston and threw the new crank be sure to place the pin bearings in the new crank first then place both clips back in. Another good idea is to replace the piston rings as well careful while putting the new ones on the old ones you can brake off. They are made out of cast iron and will break very easy so be careful. Then compress the pistons with your fingers as you push them into the cylinder. Then reassemble the opposite way you disassembled it.
I like to tinker on my Bigfoot -not to reinvent the wheel...just make it better! The weak link in the friction drive is the wimpy spring that holds the engine down on the tire. When you ride on gravel the darn thing would bounce up and down until you loose all forward momentum. I tried a stronger spring. Better, but not great. Tim Patmont says they are coming up with a similar fix to be incorporated in the new 'Foots. Then it came to me like a flash of brilliance (a rare occurrence for me), just reverse the position of the spring and tension cable! With a pully from the front brake off a mountain bike and a little stainless stock I routed the cable over the engine pivot and up to the spring hole, then put the spring where the cable was originally. Ditch the stock drive spindle for a .625 serrated stainless one from Meyer Dist. and replace the tension and brake levers with a Shimano mountain bike combo. One click of the shifter and your drive is SERIOUS ENGAGED! The only other mod I would recommend is a third bearing support 'cause I'm sure the extra pressure on the spindle will snap the crank eventually. My friends on Sports used to smoke my Bigfoot, but not any more. Wet grass, steep inclines, gravel and hole-shot wheelies are no problem!
K&N does not do any thing for stock gopeds so the first mod I recommend is a larger spindel. Biglouie the ultimate goped would be jetpropipe,hpcarb,msd,advancetiming,and a stock lighten flywheel any questions e-mail me at biglouie@aol.com
One of my ideas is if you heve a Unirace air filter and you have a hard time starting it w/out a choke you just have to prime your engine 5 times push your air filter against your velocity stack, and pull start your ped.After you hold it for about 10 seconds release it slowly.If this doesn't work prime it again and pull!!!
Too cold to start? Tired of trying to start up your goped on such a cold evening? All you got to do is take a hair dryer and put it to the engine for about 30 seconds and it will start up first try no problem.
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